WELCOME TO BRA!

We hope you have a wonderful time during the Slow Food Cheese Festival.

We are delighted to share with you some of the highlights of this city and region. In this short guide, Carlos Yescas and Hannah Morrow have included some key information and places we love. 

The guide includes: 

  1. General Information

  2. Things to eat, drink, and do

  3. Restaurants we love

  4. Bars and shops

Enjoy your visit and don’t hesitate to contact me if you have any questions or to invite us for dinner! The English-language version of this guide is below. There is a Spanish-language downloadable version available here.

    1. Bra is a city in the Cuneo province in the Piedmont region of northern Italy. Piedmont borders Liguria to the south and Lombardy to the east, France to the west and Switzerland to the north which makes it a unique culinary melting pot of varying influences.

    2. Slow Food’s founder, Carlo Petrini, established his organization in this town in 1986. In 2004, the movement inaugurated the University of Gastronomic Sciences (UNISG) in the town of Pollenzo (near the city of Bra).

    3. Bra is accessible by train from the city of Turin, via Torino Porta Susa station. Tickets can be bought at the station or online for under €6 euro and the journey is approximately 54 minutes. There are trains departing every hour. The last train to/from Torino departs around 20:00 (8:00 pm) so make sure to plan accordingly. Remember to validate your ticket in the stamping machines at the entrance of the station, failing to do so can lead to a hefty fine. You can also purchase tickets online through the app “Trainline” and have them scan your ticket.

    4. The car drive from Turin airport is about 45 minutes and a taxi would cost around €160. “Taxi Bra” is a local Taxi company. You can reach them at +39 338 8951533 and ask about fixed rates to your destination. Beware that parking in the city of Bra is really limited and is even more restrictive during the cheese festival.

    5. The city website is a good resource to learn about museums, local culture, history, and food.

    6. During the Cheese Festival there will be a couple of events in the city of Bra and some in Pollenzo; you can find out more on this website.

    7. You can ride buses 1, 2 and 66 departing from Bra to get to Pollenzo or you can also reach the university by car. With some tickets, you’re able to return for free within 1.5 hours so check with your bus driver. The bus system is reliable and schedules are up to date when using google maps. You will want to have small change/bills for the bus.

  • There will be many stalls in the town with producers from all over Italy, Europe, and the USA. However, if you want to see a cheese store in town, you can visit Giolito Cheese owned by Fiorenzo Giolito and his son. Try their fresh goat’s milk cheeses and those made by Beppino Occelli.

    1. Bra Duro is probably the best known cheese from this region.

    2. Bra Tenero, which is normally how the locals eat this cheese, is slightly younger and creamier.

    3. Gran Kinara is a grana style cheese made with thistle coagulant.

    4. Robiola di Roccaverano PDO made with goat’s raw milk, also made with 50% goat’s milk and a mixture of cow’s and/or sheep’s milk.

    5. Robiola Bosina, and many others made by Caseificio dell'Alta Langa.

    6. Castelmagno is an ancient, Roman-influenced mixed-milk cheese from Piemonte. The cheese is primarily cow’s milk with the addition of some goat or sheep’s milk. The curd style and texture resembles a hand-ladled cheese and the flavor is uniquely tangy for a semi-firm cow’s milk cheese. Natural blueing occurs throughout the paste, the natural rind is earthy and Castelmagno is often used in local risotto dishes.

  • Classic Piemontese dishes:

    1. Salsiccia di Bra made with local high quality veal (about 80 %) and pork (about 20 %). This dish is often served with a house-curated blend of spices to give it a unique flavor and is always made with high-quality meat to assure freshness. This sausage is served raw, but can also be found cooked in some dishes. Don’t miss local Piemonte beef tartare called “Fassona”, often served alongside Salsiccia di Bra.

    2. Vitello tonnato is a dish made with thin slices of veal topped with a tuna/caper mayo-based sauce. It’s served cold and is often served as an appetizer along with “Insalata Russa”–another local Piemontese appetizer.

    3. Bagna Cauda is a dip made with anchovies and garlic, often served warm. It is accompanied by raw vegetables for dipping. This may sound like a strange dish but, with the influence of Piemonte’s southern neighbor Liguria, Bagna Cauda exemplifies the perfect umami balance of high-quality anchovies and local garlic in a savory broth. This dish is often augmented slightly with the chef’s special recipe depending on the restaurant.

    4. Plin is a small, rectangular, ravioli-like pasta filled with meat or cheese/vegetables. It is most-often served in a butter and sage sauce.

    5. Tajarin is another local pasta, thin and egg-yolk based (30-40 yolks per batch!!). It’s often served with red meat sauce (ragu), usually containing local veal.

    6. Rabbit dishes (coniglio) are typical of the region.

    7. Polenta is a northern Italian dish made with ground corn. You can eat it with sauce (sugo), with cheese, or mushrooms. Polenta con coniglio is a popular Piemontese combination.

    8. Sformato is a savory flan, often made with local vegetables and topped with fonduta: a fondue-like cheese sauce.

    9. Risotto dishes are also popular in this region. Canaroli and Arborio rice varieties (used in Risotto) are grown ubiquitously in Piemonte.

    10. Focaccia di Recco is a Ligurian dish also widely available in Piedmont. This unleavened focaccia is thin and stuffed with a local mild, soft cheese called Stracchino.

    11. Nocciola means hazelnut. Try local hazelnuts in their full form, cooked, in pastries and gelato or even in savory dishes like risotto.

    12. Bonet, Budino, and Panna Cotta are three amazing desserts from the region.

    13. Albicocce al forno is a cooked apricot, served with amaretto cookies and chocolate or gianduja.

  • Wines:

    Francia Corta is a sparkling white wine using the champagne method (double fermentation)

    Arneis (white)

    Barbera (red)

    Nebbiolo (red)

    Barolo (red)

    Amaro (digestivo-fortified wine made with citrus, herbs and spices)

  • Wednesday + Friday farmer’s market - Open from 8AM to 12PM. You can get fresh produce, clothes, knick knacks, and cooked food. If you go, try the cosce di pollo (chicken thigh) from the rotisserie truck in the main plaza by the train station—get pickled pepper spread condiment from the olive stand closer to the other side of the parking lot and get a beer or a bottle of wine somewhere and try them together.

    All around Bra at the bus stations and elsewhere you will see fliers with peoples faces which are obituaries and memorials. The fliers represent the deceased and a way to remember loved ones. The cemetery in Bra has dreamy construction, floral arrangements, and crafted tombstones. It is open to the public.

    The Civic Museum of Bra is worth checking out for the architecture, but also the collection including a large taxidermy exhibit.

    If you have time, visit the towns of La Morra, Cherasco, Barolo, Alba, and Moferrato d’Alba, where you can also find many wineries and local products/restaurants. Worth a detour is Cappella del Barolo - La Morra CN, Italia, this small church, painted by American Artist Sol Lewitt, provides a beautiful yet stark contrast of bright colors against the surrounding vineyards.

Restaurants we love

  • This is probably the most genuine restaurant in Bra, serving the dishes of the region, including Salsiccia di Bra, vitello tonnato, insulate Russa, multiple types of risotto, polenta, and local rabbit dishes. If you see it, try the “sformato”. During the fall, restaurants may serve this dish with local cardoons (vegetables reminiscent of a cross between artichokes and leeks). For dessert try either the Bonet and/or the Panna cotta. As in most restaurants in Italy, reservations are needed.

  • This restaurant features well-crafted local delicacies and is a partner of Ascheri Winery nextdoor. Reservations are necessary.

  • This is the official Slow Food restaurant in town. A great place to eat lunch or dinner.

  • Many people visiting Bra for the festival get a reservation at this restaurant. Expect to see fellow cheese people here. Reservations are necessary.

  • This restaurant is more fine dining, with a menu highlighting pasta dishes.

  • This place is a true gastropub with a large selection of food, reminiscent of those in London or NYC. They have a large selection of local beers and wines (don’t miss the Prosecco on tap!). This is also one of the few places in town with beer on tap since wine is so popular in Piemonte. Hours can be inconsistent and it is difficult to make a reservation so your best bet is to go by and speak with someone directly.

  • A good simple restaurant perfect for lunch with some vegetarian options and many Piemontese specialties.

  • This is a unique place that serves homemade pizza and other small dishes for aperitivo (pre-dinner snack, often served free with purchase of a drink). A local favorite, Cafe Chiavassa uses dough from the bakery across the street to make pizza in-house–one full personal pizza per person with purchase of an alcoholic beverage. It’s best if you make a reservation if you go for an aperitivo.

  • This takeout bakery (standing room only inside) features local bread, pizza-style focaccia (similar to Roman-style pizza taglio), Focaccia di Recco, as well as delicious local-ground corn flour cookies.

  • Traditional Neapolitan-style pizzeria offering classic and unique pizzas. Try the mortadella and pistachio and anything with red sauce and nduja. Ask about the difference between Fior di Latte and Mozzarella di Bufala cheeses.

  • Worth the 10 min walk outside of the city center, Senduis is a hidden gem for local sandwiches and prepared dishes. Handmade antipasti, customized sandwiches, with slice-to-order meats/cheeses and local bread + condiments. They have Belgian and Italian beers in bottles. To-Go with minimal seats.

Bars and shops

  • A UK-themed bar featuring multiple beers on tap and pub snacks, including Puglian “ascolane”: Scotch-egg adjacent meat-enrobed Castelvetrano olives coated in breadcrumbs and fried.

  • Local shop/restaurant run by UNISG (Universita Gastronomica) students, featuring unique Italian/Piemontese products and dishes. Good place to buy natural wine, beer (craft bottle selection, but also on tap in pints or takeaway liters!), prepared foods, charcuterie and a huge selection of specialized Italian dry goods.

  • This casual wine bar serves an expansive aperitivo early in the evening (always complimentary with the purchase of a beverage), then it becomes a hangout spot for UNISG students.

  • This wine bar/bottle shop is a great place to learn about wine. Owner Mauritzio has a wealth of knowledge and offers an international selection of wines, beers and ciders. To-go bottles are prominently-featured with fair, chalk-written prices. Indoor/outdoor seating is limited so you’ll need to make a reservation.

  • Already mentioned in the cheese section, but also worth noting in this section. You can buy high quality condiments and Ligurian olive oil producer Roi’s olive gin. Official cheese tastings and cave tours can also be arranged with advance notice.

  • The best local coffee/chocolate shop in Bra! Converso not only is a cafe, but also features high-quality pastries, showcasing Piemonte’s Northern-Italian positioning in relation to their Austrian neighbours, featuring desserts such as Sacher Torte (among other cake selections) -sold in multiple sizes. Don’t miss local delicacy Bicerin–originating in Torino in the 17th century, this multi-layer beverage highlights the delicious combination of espresso, high-quality chocolate and cream. Converso maintains an elegantly-designed, classic (albeit small!) dining area with additional outside seating down the street.

  • Stop by and say hi to Bottega owner Paolo at this artisanal coffeeshop. Paolo features coffees from specialty roasters, both within Italy and internationationally (i.e. Spanish roaster La Cabra). Ask him about the espresso of the week and enjoy alongside a croissant (delivered fresh daily from a nearby bakery) or a local gianduja candy: displayed amongst their large, uniquely-curated dry goods selection. If you’re lucky, you’ll be able to meet Paolo’s mom, operating their old-fashioned cash register.

  • Go here for local pastries! This cafe/pastry shop has two rooms, one for coffee and one with a large selection of mini pastries. Make your selection (price determined by pastry-box weight) and enjoy your pastries with a coffee at one of their outside tables.

  • This gelateria is a chain, but they have wonderful flavours made with high-quality ingredients. Not-to-be-missed gelato flavours include buffalo milk and blue cheese (served exclusively during the cheese festival).

  • Number one gelato spot in Bra city center! Here you will be able to try seasonal flavours (cantaloupe!) and icepops /chocolate + gianduja-covered ice cream bars.

  • Hidden gem! This place is a short walk outside the city center (5-8 min). A good place to get a bottle of wine, freshly made pasta (try the pasta filled with fonduta), and a huge selection of prepared local delicacies if you want to have a picnic or a quiet dinner in your

    hotel.

  • This B&B is run by Giovanni and his family: local, legal Cannabis advocates and board members. With connections to the university in Pollenzo, these talented B&B owners also offer local classes in music and acting. Consult their website for overnight bookings and inquire about Giovanni’s famous dinners.

  • Bra’s very own winery + hotel and Spa. Opt for a tour + tasting (reservation required) where you’ll try Piemontese Arneis, other local indigenous white varieties such as Pelaverga and Gavi. A unique highlight is Ascheri’s sparkling Nebbiolo which they don’t export and is incredible with or without food. For red there’s local Barbera, Nebbiolo and Barolo (including single varietal Barolo if you’re lucky) and fortified wines. Family run, the grandmother of the family was one of the first women involved on an official wine board in the region and still is around/pops into the tasting facility on occasion.

  • You’ll have to go to UNISG’s Pollenzo Campus for this one but it’s worth the visit (check opening times before you go). Underneath the school (across from the dining hall) is the official Slow Food Wine Bank. Grab a glass and a tasting card from the front desk and walk through an active bottle museum, sampling wines in ⅓ glass, ½ glass and full glass increments from the wine-dispensing machines. The wine bank not only features wines from all over Italy, but also displays region-based sediment, showcasing terroir from each place the bottles are from. On your way out, take a second to peruse their curated selection of wine and Slow Food literature and grab a bottle to-go or request some glasses and an opener if you want to enjoy your bottle on-site.

Enjoy!

You can access a google map here with all the places in this list.

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